| The University of California began to take a serious | | | | California viticulture" and if he had a symbolical "son", |
| interest in viticulture. In the fall of 1880 the legislature | | | | that son is Dr. Maynard Amerine. |
| appropriated $3,000 for research in enology at | | | | Ever since his student days at the university's |
| Berkeley, including the construction of a brick cellar on | | | | experimental station Dr. Amerine has rushed from |
| the campus. | | | | one end of the State to the other, at harvest time, |
| An early report to the president of the university by | | | | collecting all the principal species of wine grapes. From |
| Dean Hilgard, Professor of Agriculture, is filled with | | | | wine made of them he and the other members of |
| timely advice to vintners even now, more than fifty | | | | the staff finally arrived at the results Col. Haraszthy |
| years after its writing: | | | | knew could be achieved so long ago. Dr. Amerine's |
| "I have heretofore suggested that this peculiarity | | | | report first appeared in 1943, with further findings |
| (high alcohol and less acid) might, in a measure, be | | | | detailed in a university publication in 1944. |
| modified by not allowing the grape to become as | | | | The vine cuttings that Col. Haraszthy secured in |
| 'dead ripe' as is usually done. This would tend to | | | | Europe for "experimental, supervised planting in |
| increase the acid at the expense of the sugar, which | | | | various sections of the State" had come from |
| is in excess at best, thus producing the excessive | | | | vineyards where they had been propagated for |
| headiness for which California wines are thus far | | | | thousands of years. Each of those famous wine |
| noted. The vintners object to this course on the | | | | communities had learned which varieties produced, in |
| ground of the European precedent, according to | | | | their soil and climate, the best wine. They specialized |
| which every additional day of sun is accounted so | | | | in that particular species. Bordeaux is known to |
| much gain to the quality of the wine. But what is true | | | | everyone as the home of fine Claret and the finest |
| in the cloudy climate of Europe is not, therefore, | | | | Clarets are invariably made with Cabernet Sauvignon |
| necessarily true in sunny California." | | | | grapes. The celebrated Cote d'Or of Burgundy, which |
| Continuous research in both field and laboratory was | | | | boasts of Romanee Conti, Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, |
| conducted and annual reports were issued by the | | | | and Chambertin, is planted with the black and velvety |
| university, which was constantly enlarging its scope | | | | Pinot Noir species. The experimentation that brought |
| of activity. Phylloxera, the plant louse that had killed | | | | these vines to these locales antedates any recording |
| the French vineyards in the fifties and sixties, | | | | of agriculture in those lands. |
| attacked California vineyards in the eighties. Native | | | | "It may take us," Col. Haraszthy had said, "a hundred |
| American root stock had been shipped to France | | | | years to find out where these vines should be |
| because it was phylloxera-resistant; the more delicate | | | | planted in California." |
| vitis vinifera European species there were grafted | | | | To that task the University Of California Department |
| onto our hardy native vines. And now we had to do | | | | Of Viticulture has been pledged for many years. A |
| the same thing here, with the vitis vinifera species | | | | vine must be at least five years old before it bears a |
| Haraszthy and others had imported and planted. | | | | proper crop. Some species do not mature or show |
| This was the time when California's wealth was | | | | their full quality until they are eight or ten years old. A |
| beginning to assert itself in the vineyards, when | | | | minimum of three years must elapse before a wine |
| Stanford and others of his prestige took personal | | | | can be judged for its qualities as a beverage. |
| concern in the future of this particular agricultural | | | | Seasons vary. Some red wines, such as Tempranillo [ |
| endeavor. In 1880 a special agency was created in | | | | require at least three years in wood and two in glass |
| the State government, a Board of Viticulture | | | | to round out their full virtues. Thus a minimum of |
| Commissioners. The Commission undertook | | | | from eight to fifteen years is required to test the |
| experimental work with vines to determine | | | | value of one planting. |
| adaptability of climate and soil to various species. It | | | | Now the right vines and the right places have been |
| established a special Department of Enology and | | | | matched. But like anything new or revolutionary, |
| Viticulture in the College of Agriculture at Davis, | | | | general acceptance must wait. Change is not |
| where research and teaching continues to the | | | | accomplished merely through the knowledge of the |
| present day. | | | | benefits that may be derived. Change in vineyard |
| It is possible to see how each event is linked to the | | | | planting involves sacrifice of income from bearing |
| next only in viewing the parade of history from a | | | | vines. Not every vintner is impressed with the idea of |
| distance. The fine wines that are made in California | | | | quality or of an ultimate destiny for California as an |
| today, though in a measure dating back to Cortez, in | | | | incomparable wineland. "What was good enough for |
| truth come from the personal efforts of Col. | | | | my father..." keeps many a vineyard in the mediocre |
| Haraszthy. He is justly known as the "father of | | | | category of wine production. |