| You may recall the smiling photograph of Senator | | | | Jefferson appeared to have a compulsive need to |
| Obama on the campaign trail in North Carolina with his | | | | write, as if he were a suitor in an ardent love affair, |
| hand wrapped around a cold brew, which raised the | | | | the grape his betrothed. At times, he was a bit |
| question as to whether he was also into wine. People | | | | compulsive, and at others, entirely functional and |
| magazine--and by the way, CBS "60 Minutes" through | | | | systematic. For this multi-tasking leader, it was the |
| its camera angle that caught a fleeting glimpse of a | | | | nexus of business and pleasure, which ultimately |
| kitchen wine rack on national television--set that | | | | became wine's most defining moment at the White |
| record straight. He drinks wine, which for many | | | | House. |
| oenophiles is as refreshing as news from the | | | | Eight administrations later, by large measure the zeal |
| Executive Mansion gets these days! | | | | for wine had waned, but not the patient and |
| Turns out that the new residents of 1600 | | | | practiced art of wine service. In 1845, a senator's |
| Pennsylvania Avenue will not be cellar aging wine | | | | wife penned a diary entry detailing a 4-hour affair of |
| anytime soon--the subterranean vault installed by our | | | | state at the Polk White House (heretofore believed |
| third president for his collection of over a thousand | | | | to be a teetotaling era). She described glasses filled |
| European bottles has long since given way to less | | | | with six shades of wine from pink champagne to |
| romantic rather workaday uses. In its heyday, | | | | ruby port and sauternes which "formed a rainbow |
| according to ledgers tucked away in the Library of | | | | around each plate." Clearly, the artful elegance of |
| Congress, the mansion's dusty cellar enclave was | | | | wine appreciation had somehow endured. |
| home to some 20,000 bottles (but not all at once) | | | | Just a few years after Napoleon's cousin Prince |
| purchased by Thomas Jefferson for entertaining over | | | | Napoleon Jerome was called on to organize the 1855 |
| his two terms. When you consider it was the man | | | | Exposition Universelle de Paris at which the historic |
| not the office that paid the tab--in those days | | | | Bordeaux classification was unveiled, President James |
| presidents didn't have expense account | | | | Buchanan won the vote back in America. His was to |
| budgets--even by today's standards that's a | | | | become an era of self-indulgent beverage service: a |
| downright generous flow of executive cheer. | | | | penchant for spirits "of fine caliber" caused him to |
| Jefferson was a social animal. CUNY professor and | | | | periodically snub liquor merchants who delivered |
| author John P. Diggins unearthed John Adams' | | | | champagne to the White House, using it as an |
| reaction to his successor's penchant for entertaining: | | | | excuse to venture out on Sundays to personally |
| "I dined a large company once or twice a week. | | | | track down more "fitting" bottles, mostly cognac, and |
| Jefferson dined a dozen every day." A day's | | | | some rye. A season of temperance set in. Around |
| selection was regularly loaded into dumbwaiters that | | | | 1880, Rutherford B. Hayes (under pressure from the |
| the ingenious chief executive had designed -- allowing | | | | First Lady who was caught up in the bellicose spirit of |
| bottles to be secreted away out of sight of visiting | | | | the Women's Temperance Movement) altogether |
| dignitaries but handy enough to grab at a moment's | | | | banned wine and liquor service at the mansion. And |
| notice. Loaded daily with wines removed from the | | | | while Woodrow Wilson attempted to stop |
| cellar some 16 feet below the east colonnade, White | | | | prohibition's "noble experiment" by veto, it |
| House servants had little reason to intrude on private | | | | nevertheless passed, and immediately clamped down |
| functions--and privileged executive conversation. | | | | on liquor commerce with historic vengeance. Oddly, |
| Today, according to longtime White House wine | | | | there is evidence that White House liquor service |
| wrangler Daniel Shanks, the executive mansion's SOP | | | | may have continued during prohibition under Hoover's |
| is to stock wines in a temperature-controlled holding | | | | watch, during the "pressure cooker" days of the |
| area near the well-appointed kitchen (not too far | | | | depression. Not too long afterward, prohibition |
| from the original stairs that connected the old cellar | | | | started unraveling early in 1933 as FDR put pen to |
| to the dining area above), keeping just enough wine | | | | paper on new freedoms for the emaciated wine and |
| on hand for upcoming events. It still amounts to | | | | spirits industry, ultimately ending the year with |
| dozens of cases, along with the random bottle left | | | | prohibition finally dead and buried. |
| over from other functions, all inventoried much like | | | | In the '60s and early 70's, both John Kennedy and |
| any restaurant wine cellar, but under the shadow of | | | | Nixon loved their French wine. As a result, given the |
| something akin to the watchful eye of a government | | | | intervening political sensibility of pouring only US wine |
| auditor poking around now and then--if not in reality, | | | | at diplomatic functions, Richard Nixon took his |
| at least in spirit--because ultimately everything at the | | | | Francophile tendencies into private quarters, or |
| White House is meticulously inventoried. | | | | instead, sometimes sought the cultural anonymity of |
| All wines served at the executive mansion are | | | | a champagne flute delivered tableside, gleaming with |
| purchased wholesale directly through the wine | | | | fresh-poured ribbons of dancing bubbles, no label in |
| producers themselves, or procured from local | | | | sight.) Rather surprisingly, in the past sixteen years, |
| distributors. No donations of wine are accepted any | | | | even as the political parties have moved in, out, and |
| longer and--especially in a post 9-11 era--bottles that | | | | back again, the executive mansion's service |
| show up unannounced are summarily destroyed, the | | | | procedures remain largely unchanged, except for the |
| moment of sad reality documented in a snapshot | | | | recent continued emphasis on a dazzling array of |
| sent to the would-be giftor with a simple note of | | | | American-centric menus at state dinners, social |
| "thanks but--." | | | | events, holiday functions, receptions and official |
| SELECTIVE SERVICE | | | | luncheons. The culinary artistry happens in a compact |
| Receiving a ratified invitation to a White House affair | | | | kitchen populated at times by up to five sous chefs |
| promises both the flash and substance of graceful | | | | and service staff, under the hands-on supervision of |
| hospitality and memorable cuisine. But, the job of | | | | Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford appointed to her |
| guaranteeing that fact is left to a triad of officials--of | | | | position in 2005 by First Lady Laura Bush after White |
| which Shanks is part--who are leaders of the | | | | House chef Walter Scheib vacated the post a few |
| executive mansion's permanent household staff, a | | | | months earlier. (Comerford is also a member of the |
| 100-plus member cadre that does not typically depart | | | | wine selecting triad along with Dan Shanks and his |
| with the old administration, often staying on as | | | | boss Stephen Rochon). |
| continuity in managing the inner workings of the | | | | As for wine's influence on her life, according to the |
| executive mansion. Shanks and his peers (along with | | | | White House, Chef Comerford has shared |
| a few outside consultants) select wines to be served | | | | "experiences with some of the nation's most |
| at each diplomatic event. Their ultimate challenge is to | | | | innovative chefs in the California wine country and |
| impress without causing a political gaffe in the | | | | San Francisco restaurants to produce original dishes |
| process. | | | | with American flavor." Celebrity super-chef John Ash, |
| Shanks balances wine expertise and food pairing skills | | | | who was one of those inspirations, gives high praise |
| with diplomatic discretion, so a wine's provenance is | | | | to this member of the White House's powerful wine |
| paired with guests' cultural sensitivities (for example | | | | triumvirate, "Chris is a master at taking unusually |
| by pouring a particular American wine because the | | | | simple ingredients and building a magnificent taste |
| winemaker was raised in the visitor's country, or | | | | experience...and her understanding of wine as an |
| because the varietal originated there.) Sometimes the | | | | ingredient in the overall meal is just as savvy." |
| White House matches wine to guests first, menu | | | | EXECUTIVE POWERS AND PRESS OPS |
| second, with the ultimate goal of neither offending | | | | The world recognizes that the White House is |
| the dignitaries nor the cuisine. Shanks believes it's just | | | | America's Presidential Palace and a powerful symbol. |
| the reality of politics. Serving kings alongside sultans | | | | But not too often do we see that power leveraged |
| and ambassadors keeps everyone on their toes as | | | | on behalf of the business sector. Accidental or |
| they consider customs, traditions and sensitivities. | | | | intentional brand association with the White House |
| It becomes a puzzle of international proportions, | | | | can create consumer magnetism of mythical |
| wherein the perfect kitchen and wine pairing recipe | | | | proportions. Literal case in point: back in the Reagan |
| can run afoul of politics, creating a recipe for social | | | | era, First Lady Nancy Reagan received a package |
| blunder. Back in November, when financial contagion | | | | from David Berkley, the Sacramento wine purveyor |
| was continuing to spread to all corners of the world, | | | | who had been offering wine advice to the White |
| sending Asian, European and South American stock | | | | House staff for more than a few years. It contained |
| markets reeling, President Bush hosted a summit on | | | | samples of a California wine then largely unknown, |
| financial markets and the world economy. | | | | Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve chardonnay. Mrs. |
| Finger-wagging newswires picked up on the summit's | | | | Reagan liked it and, subsequently, the White House |
| wine choice, pointing to "a $300 bottle of 2003 | | | | staff began serving it, and the late Pulitzer prize |
| Shafer Hillside Select" as an admittedly distinguished | | | | winning San Francisco columnist Herb Caen picked up |
| but poorly-timed pour. | | | | on the story, dubbing it "Nancy's Wine." The rest is |
| For some of us, selecting wine for life's important | | | | history for what is now America's leading chardonnay. |
| occasions is a high social stakes decision (Will my | | | | Twenty years later, history may be repeating itself. |
| wine aficionado boss be disappointed if I serve this | | | | In a pre-election People magazine profile on Barack |
| wine tonight? Is this wine important enough for the | | | | Obama, he was quoted as saying that the same |
| wedding party?) For those in the White House, one | | | | wine is a staple at his Chicago address. |
| slip-up can attract national scrutiny or precipitate | | | | Kendall-Jackson founder Jess Jackson responded by |
| global consternation. | | | | sending two congratulatory cases with his best |
| On the other hand, getting it right can be extremely | | | | wishes, expressing hope that the wine might bridge |
| rewarding. International favor was earned at a May | | | | the political divide to become a favorite of yet |
| 2007 banquet welcoming Queen Elizabeth II and | | | | another White House administration, this time |
| Prince Philip, as the 2003 Peter Michael Les Pavots | | | | Democratic. It therefore comes as no surprise that |
| Estate cabernet and 2004 Newton Vineyard | | | | White House policy does not endorse specific wines, |
| unfiltered chardonnay were served with crisp flair. | | | | the previous example notwithstanding. A |
| The concept: both California wineries were | | | | spokesperson for the Obama administration who |
| established by Englishmen who had been knighted by | | | | admitted to having spent a bit of time responding to |
| the queen for their stature and achievements. | | | | media's fleeting interest in non-allergenic canines amid |
| OLD GLORY DAYS | | | | earth-rocking crises, was markedly cheerful when we |
| While it was Carter whose administration set the | | | | probed for answers about wine service--a role |
| official policy of serving only US wines, the tradition | | | | managed directly through the office of the First Lady. |
| began with Lyndon Johnson. Before that, a | | | | Understandably, the spokeswoman indicated that |
| President's taste ruled the roost in a sort of "anything | | | | "...with a long and celebrated history of hosting |
| goes" policy. | | | | dignitaries at the White House, [the new |
| George Washington never had the opportunity to live | | | | administration] would focus on the overall purpose |
| in the structure he had designed to be home to the | | | | and message of the gathering, and not just one |
| First Family. Nonetheless, he was a generous host | | | | component such as the specific wine being poured." |
| who found pleasure in wine (and spirits) service. A | | | | But with a sort of chuckle, she did admit to being |
| recently-uncovered tally reveals that, in August of | | | | open to suggestions. It was all we needed. |
| 1776, the nation's first President ordered cases of | | | | Taking her casual offer literally, we turned to Chicago |
| claret, muscat wine and cordials, plus a keg of | | | | Master Sommelier Joe Spellman who attended the |
| brandy, likely for entertaining his officers and guests. | | | | University of Chicago and lived near Mr. Obama for a |
| By all accounts, Jefferson was the wine guru among | | | | while before each moved on: Joe to renowned |
| the founding fathers. In fact, Presidents Washington, | | | | Charlie Trotters restaurant and beyond; the young |
| Adams, Madison, and Monroe all benefited from their | | | | Barack Obama up the rungs of the political ladder |
| fellow founder's intimate knowledge of the world's | | | | that led to the executive mansion. "As for White |
| top wines. Thomas Jefferson's vast travels through | | | | House wine protocol," Spellman ponders, "I would plan |
| Europe in the 1780's certainly set his course for love | | | | on continuing to feature the rich spectrum of wines |
| of the fruit of the vine and a deep appreciation for | | | | and styles offered across America - not just |
| the timeless classics. In Thomas Jefferson on Wine | | | | California, or even West Coast: New York, Virginia, |
| (University Press of Mississippi), noted Jefferson | | | | Ohio, Michigan, Missouri, Colorado, Texas, New |
| scholar John Hailman writes, | | | | Mexico, and more." He continues, "Yet, we should |
| "Much of what [Jefferson] wrote about the character | | | | give ourselves permission to feature wines of a |
| of ...[France and French] wines he encountered could | | | | visiting dignitary's country, as a display of respect and |
| have been written last week, spelling eccentricities | | | | honor." Then, as an after-thought: "Who knows, |
| aside. 'Chambertin, Voujeau and Veaune are | | | | maybe they'll need a Master Sommelier. One from |
| strongest,' he says of the red wines of Burgundy's | | | | Chicago. What an honor that would be!" |
| Côte de Nuits; he declares 'Diquem' the best | | | | And a new chapter in House wine begins. |
| Sauternes..." | | | | |