| e past few centuries, winemakers in California have | | | | to allow the wine to acquire balance, complexity and |
| mainly looked upon the Barbera Grape to provide | | | | body. By the early 90s, Sangiovese finally made it |
| Americans with a good quality Italian-styled Californian | | | | into the outstanding category of wine ratings and |
| wine. Unfortunately for the winemakers, the | | | | one year later Altamura, which is an example of a |
| American consumers never really took to it. Not until | | | | Sangiovese winery, received 94 from the B.T.I. |
| the rush to terroir movement in the 80s did the | | | | Unlike the Barbera, which found some degree of |
| vineyard owners begin to seriously explore more | | | | popularity in the Central Coast and Sierra Foothills, the |
| suitable sites for these grapes. More agreeable sites | | | | most spectacular Sangioveses were largely |
| were found in the Central Coast regions and the | | | | concentrated in the Sonoma County and Napa Valley |
| Sierra Foothills. But the wines, though they had | | | | wineries like Altamura, Benziger, Swanson, |
| improved considerably, were still unable to attract | | | | Consentino, Beaulieu Vineyards and Coturri, to name |
| more consumers. | | | | a few. For instance, Santa Cruz, Santa Ynez, |
| In the early 90s, the Cal-Ital wines took a new turn. | | | | Monterey, the Sierra Foothills, and Paso Robles |
| Firstly, the winemakers and representatives of the | | | | received rave reviews from some critics, while |
| wine industry conducted a subtle, educational based | | | | undermined or ignored by others. Perhaps these |
| campaign to inform the consumers that the great red | | | | critics were looking for the same depth and richness |
| grapes of Italy were definitely not Barbera. But | | | | of the great Cabernets, or the magnificence of the |
| Nebbiolo and Sangiovese grapes, which only a handful | | | | Pinots, or a similar high alcohol and fruit concentration |
| of Californians had heard about. | | | | as the Renwood and Eberle Barberas. |
| One of the foremost efforts to spread more | | | | One thing that most European winemakers have |
| publicity was by Piero Antinori when he purchased | | | | always considered as essential to fine wine, but |
| Atlas Peak Winery in Napa Valley. He replanted most | | | | always takes second place in most reviews, is |
| of the vineyard estate to Sangiovese, and | | | | balance. There are many American reviewers who |
| endeavored to inform the American wine consumers | | | | sometimes describe a particular wine as elegant, |
| that it was the principal grape used in every Chianti | | | | giving us an image of light style, which is not |
| Classico and Chianti blend. These early efforts to | | | | particularly favored by the American wine drinkers. |
| produce good quality Sangiovese at attractive prices | | | | However, few of us have grown out of the the |
| proved to be very promising, but did not do very | | | | bigger the better pattern of our youth. We tend to |
| well in the market. The reasons were plenty: Was it | | | | favor explosive flavors, concentrated fruit, and high |
| because of the terroir? Or inexperience on the part | | | | alcohol contents, the very elements that cover up |
| of the winemakers? Or maybe the nature of the | | | | the fragile balance of flavors in painstakingly prepared |
| grape itself? | | | | foods. If there is something commendable about |
| Were these the reasons why the Californian | | | | Italian wines, it is that they are crafted to pair with |
| Sangiovese was stuck in the 90-100 bracket for such | | | | the various foods that they were intended to |
| a long time? Traditionally, the Italian Sangiovese is | | | | accompany, not to subdue them. |
| blended with small quantities of other wine varieties | | | | |