Barreled Over by the Many Wines of France

Last spring I was invited on a wine-lovers dreamis primarily the St. Emilion region which focuses on
vacation - a tour of several major wine regions tomerlot.
barrel sample the latest vintage. The French believeWe started our Bordeaux tour in St. Emilion at
the 2005 vintage could be the best in 40 years. AsChateau Cantenac. Other local wineries toured
this is occurring now for the 2006 vintage (and is anincluded Chateaus Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Angelus.
annual event), I thought this experience is worthOf these, I was struck by the sheer elegance and
sharing.silky texture of Cheval Blanc and the layers of black
Our first visit was to the Rhone Valley. Northernfruit in Chateau Angelus' wine. These were two of
Rhone is mountainous and has steep vineyards. Themy favorites.
primary red grape is Syrah, with bold, spicy andTo give us an overview of the 2005 Bordeaux
peppery notes. We visited Domaine Vernay andvintage, we visited several leading wine wholesalers.
were treated to outstanding 2003 - 2005 vintages ofAs some tasting rooms had samples from literally
Syrah. We had in-depth conversations concerninghundreds of Chateaus (wineries), I asked the staff to
proper root stock height, techniques to force theplease show me the top 20 in the room to narrow
roots to grow deep down into the soil, leaf purging,the field. You had to constantly use spit buckets to
trellising the new shoots and the use of organicsurvive. In general, the 2005 vintage is big, tannic and
fertilizers. Grape growing, after all, is farming.has layers of fruit. It should prove to be a great
Next we traveled to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape regionvintage.
in Southern Rhone. We visited Chateau DomaineWe started our left bank tour in the Northern Medoc
Berthert-Nayme, where the vineyards are literallyregion and worked our way south. The appellations
covered with round, baseball-sized limestone from thewe covered included St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien,
nearby Rhone River. The friendly Chateau ownersMargaux, Graves, Pessac-Leognan and Sauternes. We
generously treated us to a sumptuous dinner. Tovisited from four to eight wineries per day. Probably
reciprocate their hospitality, last October, the sameour most impressive single day included Chateaus
Chateau owners were in the United States for anLatour, Lafite-Rothschild, Haut-Brion and Chateau
extensive wine tour and we were pleased tod'Yquem. Without question, these are some of the
entertain them at our home. That evening, webest wines I have ever tasted.
enjoyed American fare and a selection of local andThe Chateaus themselves were magnificent and
California wines.some were virtual works of art. I can better
Heading west toward Bordeaux, we traveled to theappreciate the sense of pride the French feel
Cahors region and visited the Clos Triguedina winery,towards their wine industry, with its rich history and
whose wines have been used by President Chirac fortradition. I was truly barreled over in France by their
state dinners. They make a wonderful red with 100architecture, culture, cuisine, warm hospitality and the
percent malbec grapes called Prince Probus, an2005 vintage. Magnificent!
elegant white dessert wine and a specialty wine usingAs this trip covered wines ranging from Rhone's,
ancient wine-making method which dries the grapesdessert wines and Bordeauxs, their diversity does
in an oven before the fermentation process. Thisnot allow for specific food pairings nor specific
darkens the color, concentrates the flavors and isrecommendations this month.
aptly named Black Wine.Please visit your local wine merchant and ask for their
For our second week, we traveled to Bordeaux,recommendations. The 2005 vintage is probably not
divided by the Gironde River into two major wineyet available, but the 2000 and 2003 vintages were
regions. The left bank includes the Medoc and Gravesexcellent. The only current vintage that is average
regions featuring cabernet sauvignon. The right bankbelow average is the 2002 vintage.