| When I purchased my EG4 Civic hatchback
| |
| | headersDETAILSElectrical
|
| in 1998, I loved everything about it, the
| |
| | Now the Automatic Specific facts. Remove
|
| body interior and engine were all in
| |
| | the Automatic Gear Lever and toss it!
|
| excellent condition. However, there was
| |
| | There is a plastic slider underneath
|
| one thing that I would not have chosen:
| |
| | which is connected to the car's harness.
|
| the automatic transmission. The original
| |
| | This slider should be set to the PARK
|
| engine was a JDM D15B SOHC VTEC, rated at
| |
| | position and locked there by some means.
|
| a respectable 130 p.s. especially for a
| |
| | The guys at the shop put a big blob of
|
| 1500 cc!So I started my research on the
| |
| | silicone sealant over mine. This is
|
| net to find out my options with respect
| |
| | necessary if you plan to take your key
|
| to getting the car converted to manual
| |
| | out of the ignition after you drive!!
|
| transmission. In my search, I discovered
| |
| | Also on the plastic slider, there are two
|
| Eric's B16A site and the Hybrid site
| |
| | wires soldered near the center of the
|
| among others. So I began to think, why go
| |
| | device (yel, blk/grn). When these wires
|
| through the trouble of changing the
| |
| | are shorted they activate the reverse
|
| transmission on the 1500, might as well
| |
| | lights and chime. (At least my car has a
|
| go for it an put in a DOHC 1600cc VTEC
| |
| | reverse chime). My advice is to find the
|
| and gain 40 hp in the process! I
| |
| | reverse sensor on the transmission, trace
|
| considered a B18C but those engines are
| |
| | them to the connection junction on the
|
| rare and expensive in Trinidad. In any
| |
| | right side of the engine bay, then run a
|
| case the JDM second generation B16A puts
| |
| | pair of wires from the reverse sensor
|
| out the same horsepower, with a bit less
| |
| | leads to the plastic slider. Voila! Your
|
| torque. From what I had learned on the
| |
| | reverse lights will work fine.I had to
|
| Internet I knew the engine would fit
| |
| | add a knock sensor wire and an O2 sensor
|
| fine. Also because my car originally came
| |
| | wire as detailed on the Hybrid Site.
|
| with a VTEC engine, I knew that the
| |
| | However, I still got a code 23 after
|
| wiring would not be very difficult.I read
| |
| | driving the car for a few minutes. Then
|
| as much as I could find on swaps, and
| |
| | it occurred to me, that the computer
|
| tried to plan the operation to the best
| |
| | still thought the car was automatic. Now,
|
| of my ability. Let me point out, that
| |
| | I really tried to find the Transmission
|
| there is no substitute for good
| |
| | Control Module but for the life of me I
|
| information, so if you are planning any
| |
| | couldn't. Maybe you have to remove the
|
| sort of hybrid, read as much as you can
| |
| | dash of something extreme. Anyway, with
|
| BEFORE you start; web sites, FAQs,
| |
| | the help of a B16A2 wiring diagram from
|
| articles, magazines, whatever. I chose to
| |
| | my friend Christian in Austria, I was
|
| have a local shop with considerable Honda
| |
| | able to identify the ECU leads that were
|
| experience do the work and I was able to
| |
| | no longer needed. Just cut the leads and
|
| locate the engine from a local
| |
| | tape'em up! The first four are the TCM
|
| importer.MY MISTAKE
| |
| | leads; the other two go to AT sensors for
|
| I knew that it would be best to purchase
| |
| | which I don't have the German translation
|
| the engine and accessories as a package,
| |
| | :-)ECU leads
|
| and that's just what I did. But I
| |
| | B3-grn/bluB4-grn/blkB7-grnB13-grn
|
| focussed on the big items, Engine, Y21
| |
| | ornB17-grn/blkB19-yelMechanical
|
| LSD trany, ECU, Complete engine wire
| |
| | Of course when you remove the automatic
|
| harness, axles, and in so doing, I did
| |
| | gear shifter, there will be a gaping hole
|
| not even realize that the engine did not
| |
| | under there. I found that my car did not
|
| have the mounts! (No AC unit either!) Now
| |
| | have any mounting holes for the shift
|
| although In my country we have quite a
| |
| | linkage. This is good in a way, as you
|
| brisk trake in JDM parts, some things are
| |
| | get to choose where the shifter will lie.
|
| almost impossible to get, like mounts!The
| |
| | I used a CRX shifter in my application
|
| solution? Alter the original D15B mounts
| |
| | and just bolted it on through the sheet
|
| to fit. That mistake made a project that
| |
| | metal in the floor arch. Depending on the
|
| would have taken a little less than two
| |
| | linkage you use, and the plastic moldings
|
| weeks, last five weeks. You could imagine
| |
| | that you choose to put over the shifter,
|
| how my wife loved me for this!STARTING UP
| |
| | some adjustment of the linkage length may
|
| The mounts took a really long time to
| |
| | be necessary.You will see a picture of
|
| complete, plus as you would expect, my
| |
| | the pedal box from a CRX on the left. If
|
| car wasn't the only one in the shop!
| |
| | you are really observant you will notice
|
| Anyway, it turns out that the rear
| |
| | that this pedal box is made for a cable
|
| (center) engine mount could be used on
| |
| | clutch system. The verdict: scrap the
|
| the B16A. I was able to get a front
| |
| | idea of changing the pedal box. The guys
|
| transmission mount, leaving three mounts
| |
| | cut off the clutch pedal, and welded on a
|
| to be custom adjusted. By the way the
| |
| | hinge so it could be used to actuate the
|
| lower front engine mount / ac bracket on
| |
| | plunger on the clutch master cylinder. We
|
| the B series motor is totally different
| |
| | used a soft line to connect the slave
|
| to the D series mounts so I fabricated an
| |
| | cylinder (on the trany) to the hard line,
|
| adapter flange to accept my old AC unit.
| |
| | which connects to the clutch master
|
| (No way did I have intentions of buying
| |
| | cylinder. Very simple. In the interior
|
| an AC).After the mounts were adjusted and
| |
| | picture you can see the large (AT) brake
|
| the engine was in the proper place, the
| |
| | pedal next to the clutch.THE RESULT
|
| axle hardware was mounted in a jiffy, and
| |
| | The car works beautifully and is a joy
|
| necessary fluids and hoses were
| |
| | to drive. Every feature and sensor is
|
| connected. All the electricals plugged
| |
| | operational. Since I kept the original AT
|
| right in, including the new computer. The
| |
| | housing around the shifter I did not
|
| only difference was the D series motor
| |
| | loose one of my favorite features of the
|
| had the MAP sensor fixed on the Throttle
| |
| | car; the fold in cup holder! The shifter
|
| Body, so a remote unit was added for the
| |
| | boot is custom made from Italian leather.
|
| new engine. The engine fired up, no
| |
| | I also got the white faced gauges with
|
| problems. By the way, you guys should
| |
| | the deal!I would really advise against
|
| hear what the beast sounds like with only
| |
| | swapping in the other direction though
|
| the tri-y headers! Since the headers were
| |
| | since all the car's wiring behind the
|
| longer than the original, I had to adjust
| |
| | firewall would have to be changed in
|
| the length of the exhaust pipe so that it
| |
| | order to get a fully functional (all
|
| could bolt to the
| |
| | features working) automatic.
|